 
Trees & Shrubs Monthly Planner
The aim of this website section a guide on what to do to care for trees, shrubs, climbers and hedges on a monthly basis, The heart of a gardening year is a work plan, twelve months of gardening which begins in March when the ground becomes workable after frosts. Trees and shrubs begin to grow again to fill the garden with colour be it leaf, flower or berries.
January
Continue to plant bare-root deciduous hedging plants and trees. Stakes should be put in place before the rootball to avoid damage to the roots.
Plant roses, but avoid areas where roses were previously grown as this can lead to problems with replant diseases.
Move established deciduous trees and shrubs, provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary.
Firm back newly planted trees and shrubs if they have been lifted by frost heave or strong winds.
Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from cold winds and frosts, which can loosen and lift the roots. Gently re-firm them in if you notice this problem, and erect a temporary netting windbreak if there is no natural shelter. Thick dry mulches will protect the roots from cold, and branches can be covered with fleece, or even packed with dry straw and then covered with fleece, for tender plants. A wooden frame with clear polythene stretched over it does a similar job for evergreens without blocking the light, but don’t let the polythene touch the leaves, as condensation could freeze or cause rots.
Packing the branches of tender deciduous trees and shrubs with straw or bracken, and securing this with fleece and ties, will protect them from frost.
Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees.
Take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Salix, Forsythia, Weigela, Escallonia, Rosa, Ribes, Chaenomeles and Elaeagnus. Many deciduous climbers can also be propagated in this way (e.g. Fallopia and Lonicera).
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting or potting on.
Seeds of berrying trees and shrubs can still be sown - but be quick, as they need a period of frost to break their dormancy. Examples are Sorbus, Cotoneaster and Pernettya.
If there is snow in your area, then you may need to brush it off the branches of conifers, climbers and light-limbed shrubs and trees. Heavy snowfall can splay branches, break limbs and spoil the shape of the tree.
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are: Fagus (Beech), Corylus (Hazel), and also roses. Exceptions are evergreens and tender plants (best left until spring), and Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds), as these are vulnerable to silver leaf when pruned in autumn or winter.
If your trees are too large for you to manage the pruning alone, then you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.
Prune Wisteria - cut back the sideshoots shortened by summer pruning to two or three buds. Avoid cutting off flower buds.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage.
Ornamental vines, ivy, Virginia creeper and Boston ivy can be cut back now – it’s a good idea to keep them away from windows, doors, gutters and roof tiles.
Take note of the most colourful dogwoods (Cornus), Salix and white-stemmed Rubus shrubs when visiting gardens open to the public, or in garden centres, and consider planting them yourself for a winter display.
Pest & disease watch
Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark from rabbit damage.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Phytophthora root rots can cause dieback on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as found inside clipped hedges).
Bracket fungus on trees is visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees while stems and trunks are readily visible. Prune out torn or damaged branches to prevent disease infection.
February
Continue to plant hedging plants, shrubs, trees and climbers. Stakes and rabbit guards should be put in place at the time of planting trees, to prevent damage to the rootball or bark.
Continue to plant roses. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases.
Move established deciduous trees and shrubs provided the ground is not frozen or waterlogged.
Tie up splayed out branches on conifers that have become damaged by the weight of snow or by strong winds.
Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary
Firm back newly planted trees and shrubs if they have been lifted by frost heave or by strong winds.
Check protective coverings on newly planted or borderline hardy trees, shrubs and climbers, to ensure they remain secure until the risk of frost has passed.
Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees.
This is the last month you can still take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Salix, Forsythia, Weigela, Escallonia, Rosa, Ribes, Chaenomeles and Elaeagnus. Many deciduous climbers can also be propagated in this way (e.g. Fallopia and Lonicera)
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year - they may need planting or potting on.
Many summer-flowering deciduous shrubs can be pruned between February and March; usually those that flower on the current year’s growth. Shrubs that need regular pruning include Buddleja davidii, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Lavatera, Leycesteria, Perovskia, hardy fuchsias, and deciduous Ceanothus.
Mulch and feed shrubs, trees, hedges and climbers after pruning, to give them energy for the extra growth they will put on after cutting back.
Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until immediately after flowering, otherwise this year's display will be lost.
Do not prune slightly tender evergreen shrubs (such as Choisya, best left until April), but do tackle hardier examples (such as Prunus laurocerasus, the cherry laurel), if necessary.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Deciduous flowering Prunus species (ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned before mid-summer, and anyway should not require routine pruning if planted with sufficient space for their eventual size.
When pruning, concentrate on removing overcrowded growth, crossing stems, and dead, damaged, or dying branches. Aim for an open centre, through which air can circulate, as this will reduce the risk of pests and diseases.
Shrubs such as Buddleja davidii, Salix alba var. vitellina cultivars and Cornus sanguinea cultivars are usually stooled (i.e. cut back very hard), because this keeps them at a manageable size, as well as deepening the stem colour of those grown for their winter stems.
If your trees are too large for you to manage pruning alone, you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.
Cut out the top rosette of leaves from the leggy stems of Mahonia x media cultivars to encourage branching.
Cut deciduous hedges if necessary. They can still be renovated before leaf emergence.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage.
Ornamental vines, ivy, Virginia creeper and Boston ivy can be cut back now – it’s a good idea to keep them away from windows, doors, gutters and roof tiles.
Prune Wisteria by cutting back the sideshoots shortened by summer pruning to two or three buds (2.5-5cm/1-2in). Avoid cutting off flower buds.
Spur-prune all current stems on Campsis by cutting back the laterals to within two or three buds of the main branches forming the framework.
Cut back late summer and autumn flowering (Group 3) Clematis to the lowest pair of strong buds. Mulch and feed at the same time.
Prune winter-flowering jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum) once the flowers have faded. Remove any dead or damaged shoots, tie in new shoots to the main framework, and then shorten all the laterals coming off the main framework to 5cm (2in), cutting to a bud. This will keep the plant neat, and improve flowering next winter. It is a good idea to feed and mulch after pruning, as the plant will put on lots of growth in response to cutting back.
Summer-flowering jasmines may also be pruned (if necessary), providing that they are reasonably hardy in their situation. With these you should remove a couple of stems completely to ground level, and avoid cutting back laterals, as this would damage the current year’s flowering potential.
Trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers fade. Shears are the ideal tool. This will prevent the plants from becoming leggy and bare.
Sow tree seeds that have been kept in cold storage since collection in the autumn.
Pest & disease watch
Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark.
Avoid planting roses in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Bracket fungus on trees is more visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.
Phytophthora root rots) can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Coral spot is often noticed while the leaves are off deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as often found inside clipped hedges).
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
March
Continue to plant deciduous hedging plants, shrubs, trees and climbers. Stakes and rabbit guards should be put in place at the time of planting trees, to prevent damage to the rootball or bark.
Towards the end of the month, you can plant evergreen shrubs and trees left unplanted since the autumn.
In warmer areas, evergreen trees and shrubs can be moved in late March. It is better to wait until early April in colder areas. Make sure the soil is not waterlogged or frozen solid, and bear in mind that they will need careful attention to watering if they are to survive their first summer after moving.
If you are hesitant to move large trees and shrubs so close to the summer, then you can prepare mature specimens for moving next autumn. Digging a narrow trench around the plant, cutting some of the roots in the process, encourages the growth of finer, fibrous roots, rather than the thick tap roots which are harder to remove successfully, and which absorb water less efficiently.
Feed trees, shrubs and hedges with a balanced fertiliser (such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone), sprinkling it over the root area before hoeing into the soil surface. This will particularly benefit young, weak, damaged or heavily pruned plants.
This is the best month for planting roses in heavy soils or in cold areas. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously grown, otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant disease.
Prune established bush and standard roses as they start growing but before any leaves unfurl.
Roses will benefit from feeding with a granular rose fertiliser as they come into growth.
Many summer or late-summer flowering deciduous shrubs can be pruned between January and March. Examples include Buddleja davidii, Caryopteris clandonensis, Ceratostigma, Hydrangea paniculata, Leycesteria, Lavatera, Perovskia, hardy fuchsia, and deciduous Ceanothus species.
Shrubs such as Buddleja davidii, Salix alba var. vitellina cultivars, Eucalyptus gunnii and Cornus sanguinea cultivars are usually stooled (i.e. cut back very hard), because this keeps them at a manageable size, as well as deepening the stem colour of those species grown for their winter stem colour.
Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until after they have flowered, otherwise this year's display will be lost.
Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until after they have flowered, otherwise this year's display will be lost.
Do not prune slightly tender evergreen shrubs (such as Choisya, best left until April), but do tackle hardier examples (such as Prunus laurocerasus, the cherry laurel), if necessary.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Deciduous flowering Prunus species (ornamental cherries, plums and almonds) are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned before mid-summer, and anyway should not require routine pruning if planted with sufficient space for their eventual size.
Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten or slacken them where necessary.
Firm back newly planted trees and shrubs if they have been lifted by strong winds.
Check protective coverings on newly planted or borderline hardy trees, shrubs and climbers, to ensure they remain secure until the risk of frost has passed.
Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees.
Mulch and feed shrubs, trees, hedges and climbers after pruning, to give them energy for the extra growth they will put on after cutting back.
Maintain pruning on pollarded trees such as willow (Salix) and lime (Tilia), cutting back all growth to within two or three buds of the crown.
If your trees are too large for you to manage pruning alone, you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage.
Spur-prune all current stems on Campsis by cutting back the laterals to within two or three buds of the main branches forming the framework.
Cut back late summer and autumn flowering (group 3) Clematis, if not done last month. Cut to the lowest pair of strong buds above ground level, mulching and feeding afterwards.
Prune winter-flowering jasmine once the flowers have faded. Remove any dead or damaged shoots, tie in new shoots to the main framework, and then shorten all the laterals coming off the main framework to 5cm (2in), cutting to a bud. This will keep the plant neat, and improve flowering next year. It is a good idea to feed and mulch after pruning, as the plant will put on lots of growth in response to cutting back.
Summer-flowering jasmines may also be pruned (if necessary), providing that they are reasonably hardy in their situation. With these you should remove a couple of stems completely to ground level, and avoid cutting back laterals, as this would damage the current year’s flowering potential.
Overgrown climbers can be renovated this month. With deciduous ones, you should now be able to tell which growth is dead and which alive, as the live stems will show buds bursting into life. Suitable climbers include Lonicera (honeysuckle), Hedera (ivy) and rambling roses.
Trim winter-flowering heathers as the flowers fade. Shears are the ideal tool. This will prevent the plants from becoming leggy and bare.
Sow tree seeds that have been kept in cold storage since collection in the autumn.
Cut out the top rosette of leaves from leggy stems of Mahonia x media cultivars to encourage branching.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting or potting on.
Layering is a good way to propagate climbers and lax-stemmed shrubs. Layers should root by next spring, as long as some attention to watering is given during dry weather. Examples to try include Philadelphus, Forsythia, Hydrangea and Lonicera.
Pest & disease watch
Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark.
Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Bracket fungus on trees is more visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
Be aware that pests emerge as the weather gets warmer. Caterpillars, aphids and fly pests may all become problematic during mild spells. Early infestations can often be managed by hand removal, making insecticides unnecessary.
April
Mulch rose and shrub beds with a 5-7.5cm (2-3in) layer of organic matter. This will help retain moisture during dry spells, reduce weed build-up and over time improve soil structure. Pay particular attention to mulching around rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias as flowering is impaired if they are allowed to dry out during late summer.
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sap flow causing more sideshoots to grow along the length of stem. Therefore more flowers will be produced.
In colder northern regions, and early in the month, you can still move and plant evergreen trees and shrubs, provided the soil is not waterlogged. They are best moved or planted once actively growing and when there is less risk of cold. In warmer regions, it is best to wait until the autumn, as the weather will soon turn warm and dry, and the plants will have trouble establishing.
In colder areas, you can also still plant container-grown deciduous hedging plants, shrubs, trees and climbers. Stakes and rabbit guards should be put in place at the time of planting to prevent damage to the rootball and bark. Remember that watering and establishment may be problematic as the weather gets warmer and dryer, and you may be better planting in October.
Feed trees, shrubs and hedges with a balanced fertiliser (such as Growmore or blood, fish and bone), sprinkling it over the root area before hoeing into the soil surface. This will particularly benefit young, weak, damaged or heavily pruned plants.
If not completed last month or before, winter-stemmed shrubs such as Salix and Cornus can still be cut back at the beginning of the month. Prune back hard all the previous year's growth to within 1-2cm (0.5-0.75in) of the framework.
Other shrubs that are routinely stooled (cut back hard) in spring, to keep their larger or more brightly coloured juvenile foliage (such as Cotinus and Sambucus), can be cut back this month. You can leave a couple of branches un-pruned if you are reluctant to lose all the height gained last year.
Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs such as Forsythia and Chaenomeles until after they have finished flowering, otherwise this year's display will be lost.
Prune evergreen shrubs such as Choisya ternata, Prunus laurocerasus, and evergreen Ceanothus.
Remove any frost damaged shoots from evergreens damaged by earlier cold weather.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Lightly cut back lavenders to prevent them getting too leggy and woody. Treat Helichrysum (curry plant) and Santolina (cotton lavender) similarly.
Loosen any tree ties that are digging into the bark, or could do so soon as the trunk girth expands.
Take cuttings of your favourite conifers.
Twining climbers (such as honeysuckle and Clematis) need regular tying in and twining around their supports.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on.
Layering is a good way to propagate climbers and lax-stemmed shrubs. Layers should root by next spring, especially if attention to watering is given during dry weather. Examples to try include Philadelphus, Forsythia, Hydrangea and Lonicera.
Pest & disease watch
Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark.
Avoid planting new roses in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise the new plants may suffer from replant disease.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Bracket fungus on trees is more visible at this time of year. If the tree is in poor health it is worth calling in a tree surgeon for a professional opinion.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
Be aware that insects emerge as temperatures rise. Caterpillars, aphids, and other fly pests may all become problematic during mild spells. Early infestations can often be managed by hand removal, making insecticides unnecessary.
May
Prune out frost damage from affected evergreen shrubs.
Cut back tender shrubs such as Penstemon, Caryopteris and hardy Fuchsia after danger of frosts has past.
Clip evergreen hedges. If not too woody, shredded clippings can be added to the compost heap.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs such as Berberis, Chaenomeles, Choisya and Ribes after flowering. Remove one stem in three from Kerria and Spiraea ‘Arguta’, and shorten the other flowered stems to a suitable sideshoot. Evergreens such as Viburnum tinus can also still be trimmed this month.
Prune overcrowded, dead or diseased stems of Clematis montana once it has finished flowering. Untangling the stems can be fiddly, but once you can see where you are cutting, you need not worry about pruning this plant - it will take even hard cutting back very well.
Late spring is a good time to coppice or pollard Eucalyptus.
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sap flow causing more side-shoots to grow along the length of stem. Therefore more flowers will be produced.
Young mimosa trees (Acacia dealbata) can also be cut back now. Mature trees respond less well to pruning.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Prune wall-trained pyracanthas, removing any shoots coming out from the wall, and shortening other new growth to about 8cm (3in). This encourages spur formation, and increased flowering relative to green growth.
Ensure newly planted trees and shrubs do not dry out. Water with rain, grey or recycled water wherever possible.
Loosen any tree ties that are digging into the bark, or could do so soon as the trunk girth expands.
Twining climbers (such as honeysuckle and Clematis) need regular tying in and twining around their supports.
Take softwood cuttings of deciduous shrubs, including Forsythia, Fuchsia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Philadelphus and Spiraea.
Layering is a good way to propagate climbers and lax-stemmed shrubs. Layers should root by next spring, especially if attention to watering is given during dry weather. Examples to try include Philadelphus, Forsythia, Hydrangea and Lonicera.
Pest & disease watch
Viburnum beetle grubs start nibbling holes in the leaves this month, giving plants a tattered appearance. Inspect V. tinus and V. opulus regularly and spray or pick off the grubs by hand.
Check roses for signs of blackspot, aphids and leaf-rolling sawfly damage.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather followed by a hot spring and summer can encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
Caterpillars, aphids and other fly pests can all be problematic at this time of year. Early infestations can be managed by hand removal, but approved insecticides are necessary for more serious attacks.
Camellias sometimes fail to perform as well as hoped. This can be down to insufficient watering in the previous summer or current spring, but can be also be due to problems with frost, win, or poor soil conditions. Try improving cultural conditions before concluding that the problem is a pest, fungus, or virus.
June
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sapflow causing more side-shoots to grow along the length of stem. Therefore more flowers will be produced.
Hyrbid tea roses can be disbudded, removing all smaller buds from the cluster that forms at the shoot tip, leaving the largest central (or ‘king’) bud to develop into a large, show-stopping bloom.
Prune out any remaining frost damage from affected evergreen shrubs.
Cut back tender shrubs such as Penstemon, Caryopteris and hardy fuchsias after danger of frosts has past.
Prune flowering shrubs such as Deutzia, Kolkwitizia, Weigela and Philadelphus after they have finished flowering. If this job is left too late, the new growth put on after pruning may not have sufficient ripening time to flower well next year.
Evergreens such as Viburnum tinus can also still be trimmed this month.
Clip evergreen hedges such as privet (Ligustrum), box (Buxus) and Lonicera nitida if needed. If they are not too woody, shredded clippings can be added to the compost heap.
Prune deciduous magnolias once the plant is in full leaf. If this is done in winter, when the tree is dormant, dieback can occur, and pruning in late winter or spring can result in bleeding. Midsummer is therefore recommended.
Thin out new shoots on trees and shrubs pruned in winter if necessary to prevent overcrowding.
Rhododendrons can be lightly pruned after flowering. More severe pruning should wait until the following early spring.
Thin out new shoots on trees and shrubs that were pruned in winter to stimulate growth. Remove crossing stems and prevent overcrowding of new growth.
Prune overcrowded, dead or diseased stems of Clematis montana once it has finished flowering. Untangling the stems can be fiddly, but once you can see where you are cutting, you need not worry about pruning this plant - it will take even hard cutting back very well.
Twining climbers (such as honeysuckle and Clematis) need regular tying in and twining around their supports.
Young mimosa trees (Acacia dealbata) can be cut back once all risk of frost has passed. Mature trees respond less well to hard pruning.
Prune wall-trained pyracanthas, removing any shoots coming out from the wall, and shortening other new growth to about 8cm (3in). This encourages spur formation, and increased flowering relative to green growth.
Remove any reverted green shoots on hardy variegated evergreens, to prevent reversion taking over.
Prune wall-trained pyracanthas, removing any shoots coming out from the wall, and shortening other new growth to about 8cm (3in). This encourages spur formation, and increased flowering relative to leafy growth.
Ensure newly planted trees and shrubs do not dry out. Water with rain, grey or recycled water wherever possible.
Loosen any tree ties that are digging into the bark, or could do so soon as the trunk girth expands.
Take softwood cuttings of deciduous shrubs, including Caryopteris, Forsythia, Kolkwitzia, lavender and rosemary if not done last month.
Take softwood cuttings of many deciduous shrubs, including Fuchsia, Hydrangea macrophylla, Philadelphus and Spiraea.
Layering is a good way to propagate climbers and lax-stemmed shrubs. Layers should root by next spring, especially if attention to watering is given during dry weather. Examples to try include Philadelphus, Wisteria, Akebia and Lonicera.
Sprinkle fertiliser around perennials, shrubs and roses.
Water around the crown of tree ferns, especially newly planted ones.
Dig out tree and shrub suckers. If sucker removal is difficult, sever the root to isolate the sucker from the parent tree and then carefully treat the sucker with ammonium sulphamate (as found in products such as Amcide or Root Out).
In wet areas, you can still plant containerised trees and shrubs. But if summer rainfall is scarce, then planting is best avoided. You would be wiser to wait until autumn, when the weather will work with you rather than against you to ensure the successful establishment of your new trees and shrubs.
Pest & disease watch
Check roses for signs of blackspot, aphids and leaf-rolling sawfly damage.
Viburnum beetle grubs start nibbling holes in the leaves this month, giving plants a tattered appearance. Inspect V. tinusand V. opulus regularly and spray or pick of the grubs by hand.
Inspect sick looking box and holly trees for signs of blight.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather followed by a hot spring and summer can encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Check for damage or cankers on deciduous trees.
Caterpillars, aphids and other fly pests can all be problematic at this time of year. Early infestations can be managed by hand removal, but approved insecticides are necessary for more serious attacks
July
Tie-in climbers and ramblers as they grow.
Remove rose suckers and tree suckers.
Prune deciduous magnolias if necessary.
Prune June-flowering shrubs such as Philadelphus and Weigela after flowering.
Fast-growing hedges such as Leyland cypress should be clipped as necessary throughout the growing season. They can get out of hand very quickly.
Ensure newly planted trees and shrubs do not dry out. They often need much more water than people imagine.
Take semi-ripe cuttings of shrubs such as Choisya, Hydrangea and Philadelphus. Root them in pots of gritty compost in a cold frame or even with a plastic bag tied over them.
Clematis can be propagated by taking internodal cuttings (i.e. taking stem sections above and below a leaf, rather than cutting the stem immediately below a leaf joint).
Air-layering is another method of propagation that can be used for some climbers, such as Akebia, and some shrubs, such as Magnolia.
Pest & disease watch
Brown patches on conifers may indicate an earlier infestation by the cypress aphids. Telltale signs include black sooty mould along the stems and shed skin cases. Spraying earlier in the summer may have helped, but once damage is done, conifers can take a long time to recover. Where hedges are affected prune out brown shoots and tie in neighbouring branches to help fill the gaps.
Thickened and curled margins on bay trees (Laurus nobilis) are a sign of damage by the bay sucker. Scale insects can also affect bays at this time of year.
Neat circular areas removed from the edges of rose and other leaves are telltale signs of leaf-cutter bees at work. These fascinating creatures are best tolerated since damage is rarely severe.
Yellow and distorted leaves on cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) indicate a powdery mildew problem.
You may notice damage to leaves of Viburnum by viburnum beetles. The damage is not usually bad enough to warrant treatment.
August
Prune Wisteria and shrubs such as Pyracantha after flowering.
Hebes and lavenders can be given a light prune after flowering.
Continue to deadhead shrubs, such as roses, to extend flowering into early autumn. Spindly specimens that have lost leaves can be cut back a little further when deadheading, to encourage new growth.
Rambling roses can be pruned now, once they have finished flowering.
Give hedges a final trim over now. They will only grow a little before cold weather stops growth.
Thoroughly soak drought-stressed plants and shrubs, especially newly planted ones. Use grey, recycled or stored rain water wherever possible.
Keep early-flowering shrubs such as Camellia and Rhododendron well watered during dry periods to ensure good flower bud initiation.
Get in qualified tree surgeons to remove large shrubs and trees that were casualties of winter waterlogging and summer drought. Remove stumps wherever possible, as rots could spread to other plants.
Semi-ripe cuttings can still be taken to propagate many common garden shrubs (e.g. box, Ceanothus, lavender).
Rhododendrons, azaleas and Clematis can be propagated by layering.
Pest & disease watch
Brown patches, needle loss and sooty mould on spruce (Picea) trees are evidence of green spruce aphid damage earlier in the year.
Mid- to late August is a good time of the year to apply biological controls for vine weevil. Grubs will be starting to hatch and soil temperatures are now suitable for the nematodes to be effective. Target vulnerable plants such as Rhododendron, Camellia and containerised plants including fuchsias.
Black spot on roses is very common at this time of year, and spraying will no longer be effective. Clear fallen leaves and burn them to prevent spread.
Powdery mildew can be a problem in dry summers.
September
Take semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen shrubs such as Cistus, Ceanothus and Viburnum.
Take hardwood cuttings of roses, choosing well-ripened, healthy shoots.
Give evergreen hedges a final trim to make sure they are in shape for winter.
Keep early-flowering shrubs, such as Camellia and Rhododendron, well watered during dry periods to ensure good flower bud initiation for blooms next spring. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
Thoroughly soak drought-stressed plants and shrubs, especially newly planted ones. As the weather becomes cooler and damper, the soil will better absorb and hold any extra water you give it. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
Collect tree and shrub seeds for sowing next spring, such as Colutea (bladder senna), Laburnum, Morus (mulberry) and Sorbus (rowan). See collecting and storing seeds and germinating tree seeds.
Order mature or large plants now for planting in October or once the rains have moistened the soil.
If the weather is already autumnal, you can now plant and move shrubs and trees without having to worry excessively about their survival and establishment. Shrubs planted now will get off to a flying start next spring, as they will have had all winter to settle in.
Climbing roses can be pruned once they have finished flowering; sideshoots from the main framework of branches are cut back to a couple of buds. Any dead, diseased or spindly growth is cut out and the new young shoots are tied in to the supports, from the base. If there is an old, thick and woody, unproductive stem, it can be removed from the base to stimulate more vigorous growth.
Late-summer flowering shrubs such as Helianthemum (rock rose) can be pruned this month. Some shrubs that should have been pruned earlier, but were forgotten, will still benefit from being pruned now rather than left until next year. Ribes (flowering currant) and Lavatera (shrubby mallow) are examples, but do be aware that other shrubs will resent untimely pruning and may flower less next year as a result.
Clear dead leaves promptly once they start to fall, as rotting leaves can be a source of disease in the garden. They are, however, useful on the compost heap and can be shredded first with a shredder or mulching mower, to help them break down quicker.
Pest & disease watch
Good garden hygiene helps to prevent disease carry-over from one year to the next, so it is vital to rake up and destroy (or throw out) any affected leaves. Do not compost them or leave them lying, as this could spread the disease. Instead, burn them or place them in the domestic refuse bin destined for landfill. Diseases such as black spot on roses, leaf blight on quince, and scab on apples and pears can all be reduced in this way.
Honey fungus fruiting bodies will begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are many harmless fungi that appear at this time, so don't be overly alarmed. Saprophytic fungi (i.e. living entirely on dead matter) pose no threat to living garden plants. Honey fungus may be more common in areas of woody planting, whereas harmless fungi often pop up in areas of damp lawn, for example.
Powdery mildew can still be troublesome in warm, dry, Indian summer weather. Unless it is severe, it will probably clear up once the rains arrive.
When doing any pruning, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, die-back, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early before they spread further.
October
Last chance to trim deciduous hedges to keep them looking tidy over the winter.
Take hardwood cuttings of plants such as Rosa, Cotinus, Salix and Forsythia.
Check softwood and semi-ripe cuttings taken earlier in the season. They may need potting on, or selective removal of individual plants that have succumbed to rots (in order to prevent cross-infection).
Berries, fruits and seeds can be gathered from trees and shrubs, once ripe, for immediate sowing. Colutea (bladder senna), Laburnum, Morus (mulberry) and Sorbus (rowan) are all suitable examples.
Check tree ties and stakes before winter gales cause damage.
October is an ideal time for moving and planting trees, shrubs and climbers, as well as for hedge planting.
Prune bush roses now, if not done already, as reducing their height will prevent wind rock. These plants are generally shallow-rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds.
Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba, and Lavatera, can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and to neaten their appearance.
Climbing roses should be pruned now if not done last month.
If the weather is dry, keep watering early-flowering shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas, so that flower buds are initiated successfully for blooms next spring. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
Bare-rooted deciduous trees and shrubs, as well as root-wrapped evergreens, become available towards the end of the month, so you could think ahead and prepare the ground for them now. They are cheaper than containerised plants, and are the perfect choice whenever large numbers are needed - perhaps for a new hedge, woodland or rose bed.
You can still order containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens, for planting over the winter.
Place fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leafmould. Shredding leaves first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
Pest & disease watch
Garden hygiene helps prevent pests and disease being carried over from one year to the next. Rake up and destroy (do not compost) any affected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, leaf blight on quince, and scab on apples and pears can all be partially controlled in this way.
Honey fungus toadstools begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are also many harmless, saprophytic fungi appearing at this time of year, living purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants. If the plants look healthy, then there is unlikely to be cause for concern.
Watch out for fungal diseases such as grey mould (Botrytis) or powdery mildew. Although less common on shrubs than on herbaceous plants, they may still cause problems when the weather is conducive. Cultural controls are more effective than sprays at this time of year. Pruning to increase ventilation, and prompt removal of affected leaves, flowers or fruits is crucial.
When pruning, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, die-back, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.
November
Bare-root deciduous hedging plants, trees and shrubs become available this month. They need to be planted promptly, before they dry out. They can be heeled into the soil for a short period if conditions are not suitable for planting.
It is an ideal time to plant roses. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases (rose sickness).
You can still order and plant containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens for planting later in the winter, when bare-root plants are no longer available.
Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from wind and cold. A temporary netting windbreak is sufficient where there is no natural shelter. Straw, bracken, or something similar can be used to pack around deciduous plants and protect them from frost. A wooden frame with clear polythene stretched over it can do a similar job without blocking light from evergreens, but don’t let the polythene touch the foliage, as condensation at these points could freeze, or cause rots.
This is also a good time to transplant trees and shrubs growing in unsuitable positions. However, if they are more than a couple of years old, you are unlikely to be able to remove an intact enough rootball to ensure the plant’s survival in its new position, and you may be best advised to leave well alone. There are contractors who specialise in moving established mature specimens, but they are not cheap.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage. Any growth that refuses to be trained in this way can be pruned off.
Take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Euonymus, Forsythia, Hydrangea, Ilex and Salix.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on, and any diseased ones should be removed to prevent this spreading to other plants.
Soft and greenwood cuttings taken earlier this year should also be checked for disease.
Check tree stakes and ties are secure and will withstand the winter weather; ensure that ties are not strangling trunks or branches - they may need loosening.
If there is snow in your area, then you may need to brush this off the branches of conifers. Heavy snowfall can splay branches and spoil the shape of the tree.
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are Fagus and Corylus. Exceptions are tender plants, and also Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds), as these are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned in the autumn or winter. Evergreens are best left until the spring.
Lightly prune bush roses now, if not done already, as reducing their height will prevent wind-rock. Roses are generally shallow rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds.
Climbing roses should be pruned now at the very latest, and should preferable have been done much earlier in the autumn.
Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring - such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba and Lavatera - can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and neaten their appearance.
If your trees are too large for you to manage the pruning alone, then you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.
Tree and shrub seeds and berries can still be harvested and sown, once they are ripe.
Place fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leafmould. Shredding them first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
Pest & disease watch
Garden hygiene helps greatly in the prevention of disease carry-over from one year to the next. It is always a good idea to rake up and destroy (i.e. do not compost) any infected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, scab on apples and pears and quince leaf blight can all be controlled to some extent in this way.
Toadstools are often visible at this time of year, and many people are concerned that they may be finding honey fungus. Honey fungus fruiting bodies (toadstools) usually appear on, or at the bases of, affected trees. Similar looking toadstools in beds or lawns are more likely to be harmless saprophytic fungi which live purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants.
Rabbits, deer and squirrels can be a nuisance as the weather gets colder, gnawing the bark from shrubs and trees. Placing guards around new woody plants are advisable.
Damage from bay suckers may still be evident, although the pests will have been and gone. However, it is a good idea to remove affected leaves if there are only a few, and to take note to look out for damage next spring (usually around May) - the problem should then be treated promptly.
Phytophthora root rots can cause dieback on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly-drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as found inside clipped hedges), but it is more a sign of unsuitable conditions than a serious pathogen in itself.
Holly leaf blight is still uncommon, but can be spread in wet weather.
When pruning trees and shrubs, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, dieback, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.
December
Continue to plant bare-root deciduous hedging plants and trees. Put rabbit guards around newly planted trees and shrubs to protect the bark from damage.
Plant roses, but avoid areas where roses were previously grown as this can lead to problems with replant diseases.
Move established deciduous trees and shrubs, provided the ground is not frozen or soggy.
Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from cold winds and frosts, which can loosen and lift the roots. Gently re-firm them in if you notice this problem, and erect a temporary netting windbreak if there is no natural shelter. Thick dry mulches will protect the roots from cold, and branches can be covered with fleece, or even packed with dry straw and then covered with fleece, for tender plants. A wooden frame with clear polythene stretched over it does a similar job for evergreens without blocking the light,but don’t let the polythene touch the leaves, as condensation could freeze or cause rots.
Newly planted trees or shrubs can be loosened and lifted by frost or wind. Gently re-firm them in if you notice this problem.
Packing the branches of tender deciduous trees and shrubs with straw or bracken, and securing this with fleece and ties, will protect them from frost.
Remove weeds from around the bases of young trees.
Check tree ties and stakes. Replace, tighten, slacken or remove as necessary.
Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage.
Ensure any pruning of Acer and Betula is completed before the end of the year to avoid bleeding of sap from cuts.
Take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Berberis, Buddleja, Salix, Forsythia, Ligustrum and Rubus. Many deciduous climbers can also be propagated in this way (e.g. Fallopia and Lonicera).
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on.
If there is snow in your area, then you may need to brush it off the branches of conifers, climbers and light-limbed shrubs and trees. Heavy snowfall can splay branches, break limbs and spoil the shape of the tree.
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are: Fagus (beech), Corylus (hazel), and also roses. Exceptions are evergreens and tender plants (these are best left until spring), and Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds), as these are vulnerable to silver leaf when pruned in autumn or winter.
If your trees are too large for you to manage the pruning alone, then you may need a tree surgeon. Otherwise take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches.
Prevent premature needle drop on your Christmas tree by choosing a pine (Pinus) or fir (Abies) tree instead of the traditional Norway spruce (Picea abies); these hold their needles for longer. Avoid placing your tree near sources of heat such as a fire or radiator. Cut trees will last longer if stood in a bucket of water or a stand with a reservoir. Saw off the bottom 5-7.5cm (2-3in) of trunk to allow the tree to drink freely.
You may wish to protect a few holly berries from the birds, for use in Christmas decorations. Netting should do the job, but do leave some uncovered for winter wildlife.
Take note of the most colourful dogwoods (Cornus), Salix and white-stemmed Rubus shrubs when visiting gardens open to the public, or in garden centres, and consider planting them yourself, for a winter display.
Pest & disease watch
Garden hygiene helps greatly in the prevention of disease carry-over from one year to the next. It is always a good idea to rake up and burn, bury, or throw away infected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses can be controlled to some extent in this way. Do not compost such material, though, as these diseases can persist in compost heaps and re-infect mulched plants.
Rabbits and squirrels can be a nuisance as the weather gets colder, gnawing the bark from shrubs and trees. Guards around new woody plants are advisable.
Damage from bay suckers may still be evident, although the pests will have been and gone. However, it is a good idea to remove affected leaves if there are only a few, and to take note to look out for damage next spring (usually around May) - the problem should then be treated promptly.
Phytophthora root rots can cause die-back on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants.
Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as found inside clipped hedges).
Holly leaf blight is still uncommon, but can be spread in wet weather.
Roses and their surrounding soil can be sprayed with winter washes to help keep black spot under control.
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