 
Herb Monthly Planner
The aim of this website section a guide on what to do in the herb patch on a monthly basis, The heart of a gardening year is a work plan, twelve months of gardening which begins in March when the ground becomes workable after frosts, the climate varies considerably depending on where you are so there is no hard and fast rule when you begin to sow vegetable seeds or transplant seedlings outside, it all comes down to common sense.
January
February
Covering herbs that have overwintered successfully with fleece will bring them into active growth more quickly.
A few roots of mint can be dug up, potted, and forced in the warmth of the kitchen to provide leaves to go with the first new potato crops.
If mint or other herbs (such as lemon balm) have proved invasive, then this is a good time to tackle the problem. A selected clump of roots can be dug up and potted, the pot either being kept on the patio, or plunged into the ground to give the illusion of garden planting. Remaining unwanted clumps can be sprayed with a weedkiller containing glyphosate once green growth appears.
Shrubby herbs in pots (e.g. lavender, rosemary and bay) can be top-dressed with a balanced fertiliser (e.g. Growmore or fish, blood and bone) plus some organic matter, or with fresh John Innes compost (No 2 or 3). Shrubby herbs in the garden do not need feeding - most of them thrive in poor soil.
Pest & disease watch
Covering plants with fleece can protect them from flying pests, as well as from the cold.
Look out for signs of botrytis (fluffy grey mould) on herbs, especially in wet weather.
March
Divide overcrowded clumps of perennial herbs such as chives, sage, thyme and mint.
Sow parsley, chervil, chives, fennel and marjoram. Coriander can be sown under cover.
It is easier to buy in young plants of mint, tarragon, thyme or rosemary. These are harder to grow from seed, some being prone to damping off, others unreliably producing ripe seed, and others being more quickly and practically propagated by division or cuttings.
Pest & disease watch
Covering plants with fleece can protect them from flying pests, as well as from the cold weather.
Look out for signs of botrytis (fluffy grey mould) on herbs, especially in wet weather.
April
Sow basil, parsley, chives, lemon balm, marjoram, sorrel, coriander and dill in the greenhouse or on the windowsill.
It is easier to buy in young plants of mint, tarragon, thyme or rosemary. These are harder to grow from seed, some being prone to damping off, others unreliably producing ripe seed, and others being more quickly and practically propagated by division or cuttings.
Thyme can be propagated by layering, either into adjacent soil, or into little pots buried under the soil surface (for an instant potted plant).
Trim sage plants to keep them neat and to encourage fresh shoots.
Check that clumps of invasive herbs such as mint, lemon balm and even chives, haven’t grown too big for their allotted space. Use a spade to dig out unwanted shoots and runners, or divide them, giving away or transplanting any excess divisions.
Control weeds by hoeing between garden plants and by hand-weeding containers. Weed infested clumps may need lifting to disentangle weeds from the plant roots.
Pest & disease watch
Remove any mouldy or yellowed leaves promptly, to prevent spread of grey mould and other fungal diseases.
Giving plants adequate spacing will help to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal problems.
Look out for pest problems once the weather warms up. Vine weevil can be a pest of container grown plants.
Covering plants with fleece can protect them from flying pests, as well as from the cold.
May
Enjoy continual supplies of crops such as basil, coriander and parsley by sowing a little seed of each every fortnight, a technique known as successional sowing.
Sow borage and nasturtium seed for their edible flowers, which can be harvested from mid-summer onwards.
Lift and divide potentially invasive herbs (such as mint and lemon balm) that have outgrown their allotted space. Make sure to remove all stray roots, as they can easily become invasive. Growing it in pots will eliminate this risk.
Control weeds by hoeing between garden plants and by hand-weeding containers. Weed infested clumps may need lifting to disentangle weeds from the plant roots.
June
Crops such as basil and coriander can be sown every two to four weeks until the end of June, especially in cooler regions where spring is later. Parsley can be slow to germinate, especially in warm dry weather, so don’t attempt to sow this herb once summer weather has arrived.
Control weeds by hoeing between garden plants and by hand weeding containers. Weed infested clumps may need lifting to disentangle weeds from the plant roots.
Pest & disease watch
Remove any mouldy or yellowed leaves promptly, to prevent spread of grey mould and other fungal diseases.
Giving plants adequate spacing will help to improve air circulation and reduce the risk of fungal problems.
Look out for pest problems once the weather warms up. Vine weevil can be a pest of container-grown plants
July
August
Take cuttings of rosemary, bay and hyssop.
Cut back flowered herbs such as marjoram to encourage a second flush.
Parsley can be sown in southern parts of the UK, to crop during the winter. In summer, it is best sown outside. To avoid carrot fly trouble, seedlings can be covered or potted up and put in a greenhouse, when it comes to thinning out.
Other herbs can be potted up and taken into the house for convenient use over the autumn and winter.
September
Take cuttings of rosemary, lavender, bay and hyssop.
Cut back flowered herbs, such as marjoram, to encourage a second flush.
Divide herbs before they die back in the cold, in order to keep clumps potted up in the kitchen for winter use
October
Lift and divide sections of selected herbs. Once potted, they can be brought into the kitchen to provide easy supplies over the winter.
Basil will not survive outside during the winter, so bring it into the greenhouse, or to a heated conservatory, to protect it from the cold. Keep pinching off any flower heads that appear, to keep the plant focussed on foliage production.
November
Place cloches over tender herbs, or those sensitive to excess rain, and protect them against winter wet and cold.
You could also pot up some plants, bringing them into the kitchen for easy winter use.
Pest & disease watch
Botrytis (fluffy grey mould) and fungal leaf spots can cause problems, particularly on Mediterranean herbs, such as rosemary, sage and thyme, which can get too wet over winter. Gravel mulches, cloches and improving soil drainage by cultivation, and installation of drains where necessary, will all help to prevent this.
Root and stem rots, and excessive woodiness at the base, can be problematic for herbs where drainage and/or ventilation are insufficient over the winter. Think stony, sandy soil and Mediterranean conditions, and aim to recreate these in your herb garden.
Basil will not survive outside during the winter, so bring it into the greenhouse or heated conservatory to protect it from the cold. Keep pinching off any flower heads that appear, to keep the plant focussed on foliage production.
December
Place cloches over tender herbs, or those sensitive to excess rain, and protect them from the winter wet and cold.
Mulch the crowns of herbs that have died down for the winter - this will improve drainage and provide some frost protection. Grit or bark are good choices.
In cold areas, bay trees should be brought in for the winter, or placed in a sheltered position. They are borderline hardy.
Mint, chives and other herbs can be kept going, ‘forcing’ them for winter use by bringing them into the warmth and light of the kitchen. They should be planted outside again next spring and left undisturbed and un-cropped for a year, so that they can recover from the exhaustion of having missed a dormant period. Alternatively, they can be composted and replaced with new plants.
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